OMG! My Brother Printer Finally Works with My Macbook Running Tahoe!!

Brother printer

If you, as was I, are among the countless people with Macbook Airs and Macbook Pros (MBA and MBP) running Tahoe who were unable to get your Brother printer to be recognized by your Macbook, not even able to airprint with, you know, AirPrint, because your computer *can’t find it* with the Brother printer, here’s what to do!

Here is my (very short) tale of woe.

I have a Brother L2750DW printer; it’s a monochrome laser printer and I *love* this thing. Took it out of the box, turned it on, it found my network, my then-Macbook Air found it, and it was printlove at first sight. It’s solid, and it never gave me even a peep of trouble.

Well, a few months ago I upgraded to a new Macbook Pro. This thing is a petite beast, it’s got the M5 Pro chip, tons of memory and even more tons of storage. And it’s running Tahoe (my Macbook Air is running an earlier OS).

But as I quickly found out what it *didn’t* have was compatibility with my Brother printer.

I tried *everything* – installing other drivers, installing helper apps, praying to the printer gods, until I was finally advised by Brother that there are only a certain number of printers that work with the new Tahoe OS, and the L2750DW ain’t one of them.

So I bit the bullet, and my tongue, and ordered one of the Brother printer models from their list of “Brother printers that work with Tahoe”. In my case I ordered the L2640DW.

Guess what.

That’s right, it had the *same* problem. Not only that, but the L2640DW is a complete and utter piece of garbage, very cheaply made, flimsy, not at *all* the solid machine that is the L2750DW. AND it nags you *constantly* to sign up online, subscribe to auto-shipping of supplies, give them your first born, and sacrifice a chicken.

So I lost another day trying to make the damned new one work, with the same failure rate as trying to make the original Brother printer work – that is, 100% failure rate. I even tried to find a version of Gutenprint that my machine would run (same failure rate).

So, I returned that piece of garbage L2640DW. I figured if I was going to have a Brother printer that my computer couldn’t connect with, at least it would be the one that I liked.

So, what did I do that got it working?

I updated to Tahoe 26.4.1, which was released a few weeks ago.

It was that freaking simple.

Someone at Apple must have been listening, and to whomever that was, *thank you*.

P.S. Whenever I say “Brother printer” I giggle a little inside. You folks who have watched the hilarious 2-season television series Trial and Error will get it. For those of you who haven’t watched it… do.

Brother printer

How to Zoom Out and Zoom in With Your Macbook Camera

How to Zoom Out and Zoom In with a Macbook Camera

OMG! I *finally* figured it out! I’ve been guesting on a fair number of video podcasts lately and my Macbook Pro camera always had my face filling the screen! Extreme closeup! Ewwww! Nobody in a Facetime or Zoom or Facebook Live or Substack Live *needs to see my pores!*

And I could *not* figure out how to make it zoom out a little, try though I might, and *search* though I might. Because you see all of the directions that I could find online talked about either ‘switching from 1.0x to 0.5x’ or ‘scrolling through the continuous control’, *neither* of which I could find!

Now, I knew enough to know that I had to actually have the camera activated in order to figure this out. So I jumped into an empty Zoom to do so.

Once you activate the camera like that, the video camera icon (some will recognize it as the Facetime icon) will light up green on your menu bar (at least it does on mine). And you have to click on that camera icon in the menu bar.

Well, I knew that too. And when you click on that camera icon it gives you a drop down of possible action, which are:

Center Stage (turn that thing off immediately, it’s creepy as hell *for others who are seeing you* when your camera follows you – which is what Center State does)

Portrait

Studio Light

Edge Light

Reactions

Notice what’s not there? Yeah, Zoom.

I looked and looked, and futzed and futzed, and during one of those times my hand must have slipped a bit on my trackpad and suddenly I had moused-over (trackpadded-over?) the actual image that is the preview of what the camera is seeing.

And there it was, in all its glory – THE ZOOM BAR!!!

So, if you, like me, have been trying to figure out how the heck to get your Macbook or Macbook Pro camera to zoom the **** out so that your fellow video chatters can’t count your nose hairs, now you know.

(This was done on my 2026 Macbook Pro, so if you are on a different Macbook your mileage may vary, but I’m betting not by much.)

P.S. If this was helpful for you, please drop me a comment and let me know!

How to Zoom Out and Zoom In with a Macbook Camera

SanDisk Extreme SSD Won’t Mount on Your Mac? This May Be Why

SanDisk Extreme SSD

If you have been trying to figure out why the heck your SanDisk Extreme won’t mount on your Mac, as was I, you won’t believe how simple the fix is; simple, but inobvious.

I’ll bet you’ve checked all the connections, checked the cable, swapped the cable… and nothing works.

I’ll also bet that you aren’t using the USB-C cable that came with your SanDisk Extreme SSD.

Because I don’t know *what* is different about that cable compared to any other USB to USB-C cable (perhaps one of you can tell me), but there is *some* magic juju inside that SanDisk cable that makes it different from standard USB to USB-C cables. Now, I’m basing this on a data point of one person’s experience (mine), but I will tell you that I tried at least *3* other *working* USB to USB-C cables, and *none* of them worked. So I finally found the cable that had come with the SanDisk SSD, and it *immediately* worked.

Now, if you have lost that cable, there is one on Amazon that I found that claims to be compatible, so you can try that. It’s here (NOT an affiliate link):

https://www.amazon.com/ReadyWired-Cable-SanDisk-Extreme-Portable/dp/B08MFS5XMM

How to Actually Delete Your Netflix Watch History

how to delete watch history Netflix

Do you know why it is so damned hard to figure out how to remove your watch history from Netflix, so that you can start watching something – such as a series – from the beginning again? Here’s why! BECAUSE NETFLIX TOTALLY HID THAT BALL BY CALLING IT “HIDE”!

WTAF?? Somebody needs to buy Netflix a dictionary, because in *no world* does “hide” mean “delete”. Hide means *it’s still there*, you just can’t see it!

So, here are the steps to *actually delete and remove* your watch history!

How to Actually Delete Your Netflix Watch History

Log into your Netflix account on a computer. If you have more than one person (account) within your main account, click on the account whose watch history you want to remove.

Go to something that says some version of “viewing activity” or “watch history” or “history” (depending on what they are calling it this week).

Now, next to each entry (for example a series episode) you will see a circle with a line through it.

If you click on that circle with a line through it, it will “unwatch” that particular episode. But that’s probably not what you want. You want to delete the whole darned watch history.

Go down to the bottom of the page.

how to delete watch history Netflix

Click on “Hide all” which *actually* means “delete my watch history”.

how to delete and remove Netflix watch history

Curse Netflix for their stupidity, thank me for releasing you from this hell, and start watching that show again.

How I Got My Dog to Let Me Trim Her Nails

Lily

If any of you have struggled with a dog who is vehemently nail-trimming averse, here’s how I, just by pure luck, figured out how to get my dog to let me trim her nails. Now, I’m not telling you how to get your dog to let you trim their nails, I’m telling you what worked for me. This is not medical, veterinary, trainer, or any other professional advice, just me letting you know what worked for me.

My pup Lily is a rescue; she was picked up on the mean streets of Texas and placed in a high-kill shelter. I am *sooo* thankful that a rescue transport service pulled her from there and transported her to Colorado, to a Colorado rescue. (I’m honestly getting teared up writing this, thinking of how it could have so gone the other way in that high-kill shelter.)

Anyways, after I adopted her I obviously had to deal with her nails. She *clearly* wasn’t down with that. At all. So at first I had my awesome house-call vet do it out in her fully tricked-out house-call mobile exam room and lab, but Lily was so…I guess traumatized?.. from her various ordeals that she literally shook in terror any time I handed her off to the vet. So I didn’t want to add to that by having the vet force her to get her nails trimmed, no matter how gentle the vet was. I wanted to minimize her trauma, not add to it.

I bought so many different clippers, each promising to be the holy grail of clippers; nothing doing.

And have I mentioned that in addition to whatever she had been through before she came to me, she’s half CHIHUAHUA? Chihuahuas are NOTORIOUS for *hating* having their nails trimmed.

One evening I was sitting on the couch with Lily, and my eyes fell upon my nail file that I keep nearby for myself. And I thought, thought I, “Hrrrmmmm…”.

So I picked up my nail file and let her sniff it, and then very gently ran it across a single nail on her hind foot (she is also much more “don’t you touch my feet” about her front feet).

I didn’t try filing the nail, just dragging it across once, barely touching the nail, to see how she would react.

She didn’t hate it. Or, at least, she didn’t freak out, and didn’t try to pull away.

Over the next several days I repeated it, adding a couple of nails, and swiping it a bit more so as to actually file a *tiny bit* off the nails I was testing.

When that seemed to go well, I ordered these high-grit emery boards (they call them nail files, I think they are actually properly called emery boards). This is NOT an affiliate link:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C147852S

I slowly worked our way up to her letting me do all four feet, one foot at a time, and giving her a treat after each foot is done (she’s very food motivated, which definitely works to our advantage in this situation). I cradle her on my lap, on her back, like a baby – that’s what works for us – and I give her a treat before we start, and then I treat her after each foot, with lots of praise. And they are special treats that she only gets when we do her nails.

And once she was totally cool with that routine, THEN we started working on the endgame: letting me use a grinder.

I did a fair amount of research on grinders, and this is the one with which I ended up (also NOT an affiliate link); it consistently had the best reviews for low noise, low vibration, and many speed settings, including a *very* low one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CQC8N7T1

trimmer grinder

Now, and this is *very important*: when I first introduced the grinder I *didn’t turn it on*.

I pretended like it was just a funny-shaped nail file, and we did our exact same routine, but with me using the *not turned on* grinder as the nail file.

Because she was already letting me file her nails with that emery board, she barely blinked at the change from the emery board to the not-turned-on grinder (which of course didn’t really do any filing down of her nails, but I was thrilled she was accepting it).

After a couple of weeks of using the grinder as a nail file, I turned it on the very lowest setting, and with bated breath, put it on one of her nails. She noticed, but she let me do it.

Over the next weeks I slowly started adding more nails, a few at a time, first only her back feet (because of her being more skittish generally about her front feet). I *always* listened to her and if she pulled a foot away, I didn’t push it. But that really only happened a few times, for the most part she let me do it, and eventually became ok with it.

The last part was slowly turning up the speed (which may or may not be necessary, your milage may vary); turning up the speed basically just makes it take less time.

And I’m happy to say that she now readily accepts me doing her nails, all four feet, with the grinder!

Miss Lily
Lily

How to Identify and Report that Annoying Plane or Helicopter that Keeps Flying Over You

Helicoptor flight path and info

I recently had the experience of having a helicopter circling round and round over our neighborhood, and kind of freaking people out. And by recently I mean early Sunday morning. And by kind of freaking people out I mean I had neighbors reaching out to me saying they were locking themself inside their house (was someone looking for a fugitive?) and posting on Nextdoor in a tizzy wondering what was going on.

Because it went on for nearly two hours.

Buzzing our neighborhood.

Circling over our houses.

On an early Sunday morning

RUDE!

So I set out to figure out who was doing it, and why.

First I called our local city police non-emergency line, to see whether they had any idea what was going on, or at least whether they could tell me who to call. They had no idea, and transferred me the country sheriff.

The country sheriff also had no idea what was going on, and told me to call the local FAA office out of Denver.

Of course, have I mentioned that it was SUNDAY? So of course nobody answered at the FAA.

Now I was getting frustrated and started thinking further outside the box.

It occurred to me that there are places that offer helicopter tours out here, maybe it was one of their tours, although what would be so special about our neighborhood that would warrant extended circling to get a closer look was beyond me. Still, we do have the Celestial Seasons plant nearby (I highly recommend the free tour, the mint room is amazing!); and we have a fantastic view of the foothills known as the Flat Irons. Anyways, it was all I could think of, so I called one of the tour companies.

And surprisingly, someone answered! Like, a real live person – on a Sunday!

I explained what was going on and he immediately said “We don’t have any ships in the air right now, but let me see what I can see.”

This told me two things: 1. These guys have a way to check on all air traffic in the area, and 2. They refer to helicopters as “ships”.

Within moments he said “Oh, yeah, I see your guy.”

And I said, “What are you looking at? Is it publicly accessible? Like could I access it??”

And he said, “Sure! It’s a public database, it’s at globe.adsbexchange.com.”

And then I said, “Ohmygod that is so cool! LOOK at all the planes and helicopters!” (I did get a chance to use my newly acquired lingo of “ships”, but more on that in a minute.)

Look at all the pretty colors!
planes in the air

Then he said “See your guy right there right over your neighborhood? Click on him.”

So I clicked on the helicopter icon, and it brought up his flight path (proof that it was the right one and of what he was doing), along with a ton of other information, including the registration number (known as the ‘tail number’, because it’s on, you know, their tail) which is what you need to find out who owns the darned thing and call them to complaint.

Helicoptor flight path and info

And I said “Ohmygod!!! THANK YOU!!”

He was really cool, but I’m not going to name him or his company because I don’t want to get him into hot water with his helicopter colleagues.

At that point is was simply a matter of plugging the tail number into Google along with the word “helicopter” and it led me right to the company to whom it is registered.

And you can bet I called them!

But guess what? I’ll bet you’re thinking that it was probably a contentious call. And you’d be wrong.

The company to whom this ship is registered is in Virginia. And of course I’m here in Colorado. But as soon as I gave the guy in Virginia the tail number, he immediately said “Oh yeah, that’s one of ours, let me see what he was doing.”

And he looked it up and said “He’s doing power line surveying for your local power company, Xcel Energy.”

And I said “I appreciate that, but early on a Sunday morning? Like, any other day, but…Sunday??”

And he said “If you’d like we can let Xcel know to not survey your neighborhood on the weekend.”

And I said “Gosh, that’s so nice of you, Saturdays are fine, it’s just that it was early and on a Sunday.”

And we bid each other a polite goodbye.

And then an hour later my phone rang and it was the guy in Virginia calling me!

And he said “I spoke to the pilot, the reason he kept circling was because there was a LOT of air traffic in the area so he had to keep circling to stay out of the way. And the reason it was so early was because it’s dangerous to fly when it’s really hot, and it’s been so hot there lately, so they can only really fly early in the morning before it gets too hot. (It’s true, it’s over 100° out right now as I type this, at nearly 5pm.) But, he said, he was still going to tell Xcel to please not have them flying over our neighborhood on Sundays.

Anyways, now you too can look up whatever aircraft is bothering you around your neighborhood.

Heat Setting Ranges for the SeekOne Heat Gun SDL-2816 (1800w 122° to 1202° Model)

Heat Setting Ranges for the SeekOne Heat Gun SDL-2816 (1800w 122° to 1202° Model)

I recently had occasion – well, ok, need – to buy a heat gun. So I searched on Amazon, as one does, and found that the SeekOne heat gun had great reviews, and was reasonably priced (under $30) and was likely to be perfect for my needs (softening vinyl floor planks to re-glue them). And the wide range of temperatures spanning nearly 1000 degrees sounded awesome. “From a gentle 122° for delicate tasks to an intense 1202° for heavy-duty applications. This wide temperature spectrum allows for unparalleled flexibility,” says the Amazon listing.

(This is for the SeekOne SDL-2816 heat gun, not the SDL-2816LCD heat gun, which is important, as you will see. Also, while the heat gun listings are all for the “SeekOne” heat gun, and in fact the company name is SeekOne, inexplicably their website domain is “iseekone.com”; not sure why the addition of the “i” in front of “seekone”, especially as there is nobody squatting on “seekone.com”, but there you have it.)

Rufus, Amazon’s annoying AI mascot, will tell you that “1800W of heat power provides a powerful boost to ensure smooth use for heavy-duty work, and also delivers heat quickly in 1.5 seconds, and that “the temperature settings are adjustable for different applications. The heat gun provides variable temperature control ranging from 122° to 1202° through a dial and high/low air flow switch. Customers find it versatile with adjustable heat and airflow settings suitable for various projects.”

Great! I was sold!

What none of this tells you, and what you will likely only discover once you have the heat gun in your hot little hands, is that the heat setting dial IS NOT CALIBRATED!!! That’s right, there are NO TEMPERATURE SETTINGS, it’s all just guess work on a “variable temperature” dial.

Now, if you pay close attention, and particularly if you are looking for it, you might notice that. But really, you probably wouldn’t. You would see that the dial (which is basically the back of the heat gun) has tick marks much like a ruler. And like a ruler, there are longer tick marks at intervals between which are smaller tick marks. So where a ruler’s longer tick marks indicate inches, and the shorter tick marks in between represent, for example, tenths of an inch, you might reasonably expect that the longer tick marks on the heat gun’s dials represent N 100s of degrees, with the shorter tick marks representing some fraction thereof.

Based on this, what I thought quite reasonable, assumption, I wrote to SeekOne asking them if they could explain to me which temperatures were associated with which tick marks. I needed to know this because all of the directions I found for warming up vinyl flooring tiles said to not use heat above 140°. In fact, this is what I sent to the company:

“I just purchased your heat gun and was surprised to find that the heat settings dial does not show actual temperatures. For example, I need to very specifically set it to 140° but there is no way to determine where on the dial that is. Do you have a chart that shows (at least approximately) to what temperature each point on the dial corresponds?”

They responded “This heat gun comes with adjustable temperature settings, covering a range from 122°F to 1202°F. It features six approximate temperature ranges, though it doesn’t have a specific temperature display. In contrast, the 2816LCD model has a specific temperature display, allowing you to precisely monitor and set the temperature. If you have any questions afterward, please feel free to contact us!”

Well, that was not terribly helpful. So now I not only was determined to get them to narrow this down for me, but I planned to write about it – this very post that you are reading – so that nobody else went through this frustration.

So I pressed them, and eventually determined that these below are the correct temperature ranges for the SeekOne SDL-2816 heat gun. So here you go.

Temperature Range Settings for the SeekOne Heat Gun SDL-2816

Here is the dial on the SeekOne heat gun. As you can see, the heat gradient is separated into six zones. Here are the corresponding temperatures for each zone (all given in Fahrenheit).

Heat Setting Ranges for the SeekOne Heat Gun SDL-2816 (1800w 122° to 1202° Model)

Zone 1 goes from 122° to 302°

Zone 2 goes from 302° to 482°

Zone 3 goes from 482° to 662°

Zone 4 goes from 662° to 842°

Zone 5 goes from 842° to 1022°

Zone 6 goes from 1022° to 1202°

Once you know this, this is a great little heat gun, at a great price (under $30). Here is the link to it on Amazon (NOT an affiliate link): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078S5QMFG/

About Intuition or the Gift of Fear

scary face gift of fear intuition

THE GIFT OF FEAR: That fight-or-flight visceral, in-the-moment response that we call ‘fear’ is often intuition. I can absolutely point to many times that my intuition kicked in, and I 100% know that I would be dead if I hadn’t listened to it in that split second. The first was in 1979 when I arrived home from a function, late at night, and something told me to peek in the window before entering the house. My then-husband (a physical abuser) had his shotgun trained at the door.

The second time was in the mid 80s; I was driving along an isolated stretch of road (a sort of highway) and a car behind me kept flashing their lights as if to tell me to pull over. Thinking that maybe they saw something on my car about which they wanted to warn me (like a tail light being out or such) I finally pulled over. A man walked up to my window and something told me that something was off. So I just barely cracked the window, and kept my foot on the gas. He said “How are you? Where are you going?” and I peeled out of there so fast! I later learned that there has been a serial killer in that area using exactly that MO.

The third time was in the early 2000s, in Sunnyvale, California. I was gassing up my car, and another car pulled in, nose first, to the other pump in the aisle. A man in the driver seat in that car yelled out “Hey, can you tell me where highway 101 is?” He had a map open so I couldn’t see his face, although I didn’t really consciously take note of that at the time. But something told me to not go over there. I just pointed in the direction of highway 101. He asked me to come over and show him on the map, and I didn’t. Then he said “You won’t come over here because we’re black, right?” I hightailed it out of there. It was only later, as I was recounting this to my husband, in detail, that I realized 1) The gas pumps were between us and the convenience store, so nobody could see what happened to me if I’d gone over there; 2) highway 101 was literally just behind them, in fact in the direction from which they had come, and 3) They were trying to shame me into going over there – I actually hadn’t noticed that they were black (how could I with their face obscured by the map)?

Gavin de Becker has a great book called ‘The Gift of Fear’. He is a psychologist who debriefs trauma survivors, including rape victims/near victims, assault victims, and near-victims of murder. Every time he debriefs them by bringing them back in their memory to the moments leading up to the event they realize that their intuition had told them that something was off. The ones who became victims had ignored their intuition. The ones that escaped had listened to their intuition even though they had no idea at the time why their intuition had told them that something was ‘off’; but in the recounting they were able to bring to mind many details that had added up to that ‘intuition’. de Becker explains that your intuition is, often, actually your brain and senses taking in the entire landscape, and sending a message triggering your fight-or-flight response because your brain is taking in at such a speed the things that you are unable to process consciously in the moment. Whatever you want to call it – intuition or something else – it’s your friend, trying to protect you.

I have never regretted listening to my intuition. I have often regretted not listening to my intuition. I highly recommend de Becker’s book, The Gift of Fear.

I’m sure that many of you have similar stories. Please feel free to share them, there will be no judgement here.

How I Started Replacing the Plastics in My Kitchen, Food and Drink, and What I’m Using Now

Here's How I Started Reducing Plastics in My Kitchen and Food and Drink Streams

Recently I have started an effort to reduce plastics, and in particular microplastics, in my life. The obvious and most pressing place to start was in my kitchen, as it is through food and drink that microplastics end up in our bodies. Here is how I removed plastic entirely from the first area on which I focussed my attention: my water bottles, my electric kettle, and my coffee travel mug.

Note that the links below are NOT affiliate links. If you have found this helpful please consider putting something in my tip jar, but I am not going to diminish the integrity of my recommendations by trying to monetize them.

What the NIH Says About Microplastics

(Feel free to skip this section if you already know.)

The National Institute of Health explains that “Microplastics are synthetic, high-molecular weight compounds that have been micronized into plastic particles smaller than 5 mm in size. Such materials have a low biodegradation rate and, thus, mostly remain in the environment and adversely affect the human body, the final consumer in the food chain,” and “Previous estimates indicated that humans are exposed to between tens of thousands and millions of microplastics each year, or several milligrams per day. The main exposure route could be the inhalation of indoor air and drinking water in plastic bottles. Exposure to microplastics through food intake is likely the main exposure source, although it remains difficult to provide a detailed estimate due to the lack of research on the contents and internal doses of microplastics in different foods.” And, finally, “Plastic, which has become inseparable from human life, has given various benefits to mankind, but is naturally or artificially divided into various sizes and affecting the natural ecosystem. When the size of the plastic becomes smaller and microplastics are formed, they can be absorbed, ingested, or inhaled into the human body through the skin, gastrointestinal system, or lungs. These microplastics can physically block the digestive system, stimulate the mucous membrane, and injure it. Also, when the size of microplastics becomes smaller than 1 micrometer to form nanoplastics, which are ultrafine plastics, they can pass through the primary tissue barrier in the body and penetrate the capillary blood vessel through the blood stream, which can be dispersed throughout the body. In addition, ultrafine plastics have hydrophobic properties that do not dissolve in water and can be dispersed, resulting in various properties.”

What I Have Done so Far to Get Plastics Out of My Kitchen and Food and Drink Stream

When I started thinking about this I came to the stunning realization that it’s likely that the greatest daily source of microplastics in my kitchen was my water and coffee intake.

Water Bottles

For a very long time I have filled two or three quart-sized plastic water bottles and placed them, pre-filled, in my kitchen, where they would prompt me to drink them throughout the day, thus making sure that my water intake was adequate. That is two to three quarts of water every day that are stored in and drank out of plastic bottles. While they are BPA-free, to me that was no longer adequate.

In addition, I have a couple of Camelbak water bottles that I use when working out. Also, of course, plastic. I work out 5x a week, so, again, a lot of water sitting in and sipped from plastic.

What I Did About Water Bottles

Plastic-Free Sports Water Bottles

You will be hard-pressed to find all-glass, no plastic water bottles. You can find some that are all metal, although they have plastic lids (but just to cap them, you don’t drink through them). However! The good news is that there is one water bottle that is all glass, including the neck, with a silicone lid. They are made by BlenderBottle, they are 18-ounce, and they are awesome! The glass is thick, so less likely to break if you drop it (plus parts of it are encased in silicone), although of course being glass they could break if you abuse them.

all glass water bottle blenderbottle blender bottle

The bad news is that they don’t seem to be making them any longer. But the other good news is that BlenderBottle has made this bottle for someone else, Shakeology. So you can get the Shakeology-branded all-glass BlenderBottle from Amazon, at least as long as they last, here: https://www.amazon.com/shakeology-Reusable-Durable-Silicone-Drinking/dp/B0CJGBJSKW/

Plastic-Free Quart-size Water Bottles

I replaced the “in my face to remind me to drink enough water” plastic water bottles with plain old narrow-neck (known as “regular mouth”, as compared to “wide mouth”) Mason jars (i.e. canning jars), with colourful lids. They are great, and the narrower necks fit even my tiny hands. Don’t they look great? :~)

Here's How I Started Reducing Plastics in My Kitchen and Food and Drink Streams

Here’s the crazy thing: even though I was washing those water bottles every night, and they were very clean, the water in the glass bottles tastes so much better! It tastes, I don’t know – somehow cleaner, or purer! It’s much more quenching!

You can get regular-mouth quart size canning jars at most hardware or even grocery stores, or you can get them here on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/LAIBY-Regular-Mouth-Canning-Silver/dp/B0C4LZV88Y/

You can get pint (16 oz) regular-mouth canning jars (in case you prefer a smaller size) here on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Ball-61000-Regular-16-Ounces-12-Units/dp/B07MZ97158/

Canning jars are cheap – about $1 a jar.

You can get the cute (all metal, with a silicone seal) lids here: https://www.amazon.com/Supplies-Standard-Airtight-Silicone-Chrismas/dp/B075JRW1QK/

Plastic-Free Electric Kettles

I have been using a BPA-free but fully-plastic electric kettle for years; in fact more years than I care to think about. And, of course, this may be one of the worst offenders, because that plastic is being exposed to both boiling water and boiling-hot steam every time you use it. So I was very excited to find the only electric kettle (at least on Amazon) that boldly declares “No Plastic Contact with Water!” and “ZERO CONTACT WITH PLASTIC!”! The problem is that they lie. In fact, as I wrote in my rather scathing review of the kettle, “There is plastic immediately over the spout, and the only way for there to be “no contact” is if you pour very carefully and at an odd angle. And even if you do that, your kettle has been subjecting that plastic to boiling-point steam, leaching the microplastics back into your water!”

So, of course, I returned the kettle and kept searching. And I finally found it – the holy grail of plastic-free electric kettles! It works very well, is (I think) cute, and has a cool thermometer built right into the side of the kettle so you can monitor how hot your water is, in case you are a tea aficianado or making something for children, and want the water to be a temperature below 212°. You can see it in the picture above, and you can read more about it and order it on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D8BKV3JL/

Plastic-Free Insulated Thermal Travel Cup

In my search and research I found exactly one – count ’em, one – insulated travel cup that had absolutely no plastic. I had previously loved my big stainless steel Yeti cup, but the lid (through which you sip your hot beverage) is plastic. So every sip of a hot beverage is flowing over plastic. Ick.

It took me a long time to find the one travel mug (well, tumbler) with no plastic. Fortunately, it’s awesome! It is triple-walled stainless steel (the outside comes in various patterns), with a ceramic lid! The lid has a silicone stopper to keep the liquid from splashing out, although I found that I needed to remove the stopper to make drinking through the lid comfortable, but that may just be me. If I ever needed to.. you know.. actually travel with it, I think I’d just order a second lid, keeping the stopper on one and the stopper off the other. (Note that the lid is very hard to get off and put back on the first few times, but eventually the silicone flange yields just a tiny bit, so that it’s much easier to put the lid on and off, while still sealing the tumbler.)

You can see the cup in the picture above, and here’s a picture of the lid sans silicone stopper:

travel tumbler with ceramic lid no plastic

You can check out this awesome no-plastic insulated travel tumbler here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KY64FHK

Again, none of these links are affiliate links. :~)


In addition I have started trying hard to buy food that isn’t in plastic, but it’s difficult! The easiest thing with which to accomplish this is fresh produce, or shelf-stable goods in non-plastic bags.

And that’s what I’ve done so far to reduce plastics and microplastics, especially in my food and drink stream! Have you also been reducing and replacing plastics in your life? What have you done? Please share it with me in a comment, so we can all benefit from what each other is doing!

How to Change Your Own Damned Subaru LED Brake Light (And No You Don’t Need to Replace the Entire Light Assembly!)

How to Change Your Own Damned Subaru Tail Light (And No You Don't Need to Replace the Entire Light Assembly!)

Guess what! When your brake light (that white sideways U) goes out on your Subaru, you don’t have to have the whole assembly replaced, and you don’t have to take it to the dealership, and you can in fact change out that specialized, proprietary Subaru LED bulb yourself, for under $50. And if I can do it, you certainly can!

NOTE: This is based on my own experience with my 2017 Subaru Forester. If you have a different year or model YMMV (no pun intended), but it probably won’t vary by much.

First, those sideways white U lights are your brake lights, so they’re pretty important. And Subaru knows this. So when you go to check how to change your rear lights in your Subaru, and in particular that sideways U brake light, in your Subaru owner’s manual you are told “consult your Subaru dealer for replacement.”

In fact, in the user’s manual those white rear sideways U lights aren’t even given a part number, instead they are designated not by a number, but by a letter, F. As we all know, F stands for F*cked. In this case, you’re effed if you want to change the burned out bulbs in that sideways U. They want you to believe that you can’t change it out yourself. Because of course they want you to do it at the dealership or, as one post I saw called it, “the stealership”. Where you will be charged at least two limbs.

And, indeed, when you ‘consult your Subaru dealer’ you are likely to be told “you need to bring it in”, and nearly as likely to be told “we need to replace the entire light assembly; that’ll be $300 please.”

So….

How to Replace Your Own Damned Brake Light No Matter What Subaru Says, Here’s How

First things first:

Order a set of Torx drivers. Here is the set that I got, they are less than $7:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q21RPS2

Then order the LED light that you need here (NOTE that this one is specific to my 2017 Forester, if you have a different year/model you may need a different one):

https://www.subarupartsplus.com/oem-parts/subaru-bulb-84960sg000

(These are NOT affiliate links. I do not use affiliate links because I want you to know that if I am recommending something it’s because I really use it myself and recommend it, and not for financial gain.)

Once you have your LED light and Torx drivers, you are ready!

Remove the Rear Light Housing

Before you can change your Subaru brake light LED, you have to be able to access it. This means removing the light assembly/housing. Some YouTube videos will tell you that you need to pry the back end of it away from the car. DO NOT DO THAT! You will break it!

How to Remove the Rear Light Housing Assembly on your Subaru

There are two screws at the front of the housing which hold the housing to the body of your car. Remove those.

Then the rear light housing slides out by pulling it straight back. This is because the back part of it is held on by a post-and-slot fastener.

How to Change Your Own Damned Subaru LED Brake Light assembly removal post

 

How to Change Your Own Damned Subaru LED Brake Light slot

 

It may be slightly difficult to slide this housing off, but trust me, it will happen. Do this slowly for two reasons: 1. You don’t want to risk breaking it. and 2. There is a wired connector connecting the housing to the body of the car, which you will need to unclip.

Wired Connector
How to Change Your Own Damned Subaru LED Brake Light connector wire

 

Wired Connector Disconnected
How to Change Your Own Damned Subaru LED Brake Light connector wire disconnected

 

Changing Out the LED Rear Brake Light

Once you have the rear light housing disconnected from the body of the car, gently set it down and look for this:

Brake Light LED Bulb*
How to Change Your Own Damned Subaru LED Brake Light  led light

 

Brake Light LED Bulb Closeup*
How to Change Your Own Damned Subaru LED Brake Light torx  screw

*I could have sworn that I took pictures exactly like the two above to include in this tutorial, however they seem to have disappeared from my phone. The above two pictures are credit to Reddit and, specifically, drinkythedrunkguy on Reddit.

Now take your Torx driver (I found that it was the #15) and remove that darned Torx screw.

Once you’ve removed the Torx screw, slide your LED brake light bulb out, and unclip it.

Clip the new bulb back in, slide it into place, and screw the Torx screw back in.

New Subaru LED Brake Light Bulb
how to replace a subaru LED brake light - new LED bulb

 

Business End of Subaru LED Brake Light Bulb
Business End of Subaru LED Brake Light replace it yourself

New Subaru LED Brake Light Clipped in and About to Be Put Back In
replacing Subaru LED brake light

Now just re-connect the wire between the housing and the body of the car, slide the housing back into place, replace the screws, and you’re done!